Eats of Eden: The Triad’s most unusual brunch options

by Eric Ginsburg

In the first four years I lived in the Triad, I ventured into Winston-Salem only once: to eat brunch.

It isn’t easy to convince most college students to leave campus on a regular basis, and even though I worked diligently to connect myself to things happening in Greensboro while attending Guilford College, I rarely found the occasion to leave city limits. The only thing that could convince me, apparently, was the promise of a fantastic brunch. The former incarnation of Mary’s Gourmet Diner, then on Brookstown Avenue, pulled me into the Camel City, but as soon as the meal ended, I slipped back onto Business 40 without ever seeing Fourth Street.

After graduating five years ago and deciding to stick around, immersing myself in the cities became a top priority. I’ve always felt like you need to peel back the edges here to find the charm, digging in and discovering what is incredible on your own. I’d ask people for advice, sure, but for the most part there were no guides or wise sages to turn to. My friends and I discovered thrift stores, swimming holes and tiny restaurants like lost tourists in a place overlooked by Fodor’s, occasionally asking locals but mostly stumbling onto marvelous things accidentally.

We found unlocked rooftops and swimming pools, traipsed through abandoned buildings and international markets. We found most everything we were looking for eventually, but one thing I longed for eluded me: multiple crave-worthy brunch choice.

So I started a chart. It’s the only time I can remember voluntarily opening Excel, punching in each place I found, listing operating hours and making notes about what to order. “Weekends, open early, chocolate crepes,” reads an entry from years ago next to Print Works Bistro, the restaurant for the Proximity Hotel in Greensboro.

Since I started the personal list, the number of venues serving brunch has increased dramatically, with places like Sticks & Stones adding the meal to their menu. It spiraled out of hand as I expanded my scope too, incorporating High Point and Winston-Salem to the rolls. An exhaustive list began to seem unreasonable, and impractical.

So I narrowed the scope. There are enough brunch options in the Triad now that you likely already have a favorite place or two, but it would be a mistake to overlook the bounty of choices, particularly the bizarre, unusual and rare menu items that — more often than not — are delicious.

Here are the most unique brunch options around that I can find, based on hours of combing through menus and asking around, but primarily by sitting in the pews on Sunday at what is my closest equivalent to church. And then, because you only live once, I threw in nine more honorable mentions.

There’s a chance I’ve missed something, and because you may take this meal as seriously as I do, let me make a few quick disclaimers:

Before arguing about how good the “World Famous Pancakes” are at Tom’s Place in High Point or lamenting the recent announcement that New Town Bistro in Winston-Salem is closing, remember that this is a list of the most unusual and uncommon options that the Triad has to offer.

• For the most part, I’m leaving out breakfast all-day-any-day type places, though I bent the rules in some spots.
• I intentionally excluded large chains; I’m pretty sure you can find them on your own.
• I know that High Point is significantly underrepresented on the main list, though the Third City did pretty well in the runner-up section at the end. That’s because brunch fare in High Point leans more traditional; even places like the Claddagh (brunch all weekend) provide standard options unless you count its Dublin omelet or Irish mixed grill.
• Some of the best brunches I’ve eaten, or even entire restaurants that serve brunch, aren’t on this list. That’s a conversation for another day. For now, it’s all about the strange stuff.
• I encourage you to use this list, to cross things out you dislike or aren’t interested in and to add your own that I intentionally excluded or accidentally overlooked. This may be my temple, but I’m not dogmatic about a religion of brunch — discovering it for yourself is half the fun.

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Fried alligator tail @ Willow’s Bistro (W-S)

Available: Sundays, 10:30 a.m.-3 p.m. willowsbistro.net

I see no reason to toy with you — I’m putting the most unexpected brunch option I could find right up front. There are all sorts of bizarre appetizers on the brunch menu at Willow’s Bistro, including spicy sesame soba noodles, baked Brie wedges and sautéed escargot. The innovative restaurant boasts the best ingredient options for a make-your-own omelet: artichokes, pancetta, pulled pork, fontina cheese, roasted green chilies or crab, to name a few.

But the panko-fried alligator tail with spicy chipotle-honey slaw — one of the appetizers — is easily the most unusual, though its appearance is fairly ordinary: It looks and sort of tastes like chicken nuggets, and doesn’t taste too far off from an upscale version either. Dipping mustard rounds out the tasty fare, which looks harmless enough that even a kid would eat it, save for maybe the pink and purple color of the slaw.

Chef Will Kingery is the force behind three restaurants in the Camel City: Willow’s and King’s Crab Shack, and he recently took over Silo Deli in Reynolda Village. Willow’s, at least for now, is the only one that serves brunch, but that’s okay considering the suite of options, including an Oreo and graham waffle special on Sundays.

Chicken and pancakes @ Mad Hatter (GSO)

Available: Weekends, 10 a.m.-2 p.m. madhatterbb.com

I had no idea what I was getting myself into when I ordered this spin on chicken and waffles, other than that there would be chicken and gravy sandwiched between pancakes. Nowhere did the menu mention that this would be a double-decker affair, with three pancakes and two layers of chicken engulfing an entire plate. A server asked if I wanted the chicken fried or grilled, though it seems bizarre to pick anything but fried for this massive breakfast platter.

My mouth actually fell open in surprise when I saw the dish in front of me, and by the time I finished, it barely looked like I had made a dent in the pile. Mad Hatter also sells an array of bloody Marys, which deserve a mention because they are served with beef straws. Think hollowed-out beef jerky.

Portabella and shrimp Benedict @ Sammy G’s Tavern (HP)

Available: Sundays, 11 a.m.-2 p.m. sammygtavern.com

I’m all about some eggs Benedict. I basically order it whenever possible, whether it comes with ham, Canadian bacon, prosciutto or salmon. I’m especially game if there’s a crab cake involved like at the Worx in Greensboro or even on a sweet-potato biscuit like Sweet Potatoes in Winston-Salem. But Sammy G’s in High Point, a sister restaurant to Fratelli’s in Winston-Salem, has one with portabella and shrimp on top. The brunch menu also includes a bananas Foster French toast and a High Point Hot Brown that sound appealing.

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Brisket over truffle fries @ 1618 Seafood Grille (GSO)

Available: Sundays, 11 a.m.-2 p.m. 1618seafoodgrille.com

It’s hard to veer away from the adorable dollops of chicken atop small waffles in 1618’s General Tso chicken & waffles brunch item, but when I asked a friend who works here whether to order that or the crispy beef brisket over truffled pomme frites, he said to go with the latter but prepare for a nap. I wasn’t ready for the masterpiece — served with cheddar cheese, scallions, avocado, radish, a fried egg, hollandaise sauce and a jalapeño popper — presented before me.

Tasty and beautiful, it’s probably the most ornate brunch I’ve ever had. The plated powerhouse comes in a tower that was destined to fall once I dug in. All those ingredients might sound excessive, but trust me — it’s just right.

The Works omelet @ Breakfasttime (W-S)

Available: Daily, 6 a.m.–2:30 p.m. breakfasttimenc.com

The last on a list of a dozen omelet options at this south Winston-Salem breakfast joint comes with all the meats and all the vegetables, as well as Jack and cheddar cheeses. In the timeless words of Soulja Boy, this item is “all the way turnt up.” Like the other omelets, it comes with several side options and a choice of bread, but if you’re turnt, best go with the gravy and biscuit. By my own standards Breakfasttime shouldn’t make the cut because it serves daily breakfast rather than brunch, but with a name like that, how could I say no? This may also be particularly appealing to those who work weekends

Bottomless mimosas @ Saffron (GSO)

Available: Sundays, noon-3 p.m. saffronindiancuisine.com

The Triad’s best Indian buffet is a little more expensive on the weekend, but with good reason: Free alcohol is involved. Bottles of champagne sit next to a large container of self-serve orange juice, inviting brunchers to sip while they scarf. It’s just part of the surprisingly affordable buffet flat price, but regardless, the food is the main attraction. Nobody here is getting sloppy though; Saffron is a more upscale Indian cuisine spot. This rare option speaks for itself.

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Artichoke Benedict @ Finnigan’s Wake (W-S)

Available: Sundays, 10 a.m.-3 p.m. finniganswake.net

Finnigan’s boasts three Irish potato pancake, or “boxty,” brunch options — that’s one more than its Irish counterpart M’Couls in Greensboro — and has a granola and yogurt plate on its menu. But the most unique morning fare, once traditional Irish options available elsewhere are put to the side, is the artichoke Benedict, featuring “Opie’s arti-cakes” along with the classic ingredients. It’s well seasoned and a great vegetarian alternative to crab cake, and the grilled tomato it’s served with is a nice touch. Finnigan’s may be an Irish pub, but the food quality and sophistication of the presentation is a far cry from bar food.

Another Brunch Creation @ Lucky 32 (GSO)

Available: Saturdays, 11 a.m.-3 p.m. and Sundays, 10 a.m.-3 p.m. lucky32.com

I’ve come to learn that it’s worth trusting the chef with whatever the brunch creation of the day is at Lucky 32, a longstanding Southern restaurant that is remarkably cheaper for brunch than at dinner, and it’s easier to find seating, too. I’ve ended up with a Thanksgiving-style turkey sandwich with cranberry sauce, toast with poached eggs and thick slices of tomato grown at Guilford College and an egg dish with bacon that I only remember as delicious.

Last weekend, Lucky 32 dished up corned beef with duck-fat roasted potatoes and topped with two Massey Creek poached eggs. The brunch is served with a side — there are plenty of solid choices including the deviled eggs, biscuits, asparagus or a memorable fried grit cake, as well as spectacular cornbread to start. Bonus: The service is adroit.

Several of the omelets @ Mama Zoe Michael’s (W-S)

Available: Any day, all day, except Sunday. mamazoemichaels.com

I’ve never seen so many omelets in my damn life. There are two gyro omelets here (and there’s one at Cagney’s Kitchen in town, too), another with kielbasa Polish sausage, a Mediterranean one with Kalamata olives and tzatziki, another with pinto beans and beef, a sautéed chicken-liver choice and even a pesto-primavera omelet. It’s enough that you could almost miss that Mama Zoe’s also serves Hawaiian hotcakes stuffed with grilled pineapple, pecans and toasted coconut. It’s a country-kitchen style joint with a generic, wagon-wheel décor, but the menu is rife with one-of-a-kinds.

Deep-fried French toast @ Crafted (GSO)

Available: Sundays, 11 a.m.-3 p.m. craftedtheartofthetaco.com

Crafted is best known for its tacos, which themselves are unusual, like the Big Truck: mac & cheese, pulled pork, tobacco onions, scallions and bacon barbecue sauce. There’s also a fantastic avocado stuffed with chorizo, tomato, queso dip, onion and cilantro. Plus, the extensive vegan menu is incredibly rare in the Piedmont Triad.

The hype about Crafted right now is the impending opening of a second location, just a few blocks away in downtown Greensboro next to Preyer Brewing Co., both of which are expected in early May. The fact that the new concept has been kept a secret for so long is a frequent topic in the local rumor mill, but all the attention overlooks Crafted’s Sunday brunch menu, a relatively recent debut.

And the weirdest thing on there is easily the deep-fried French toast, which comes with honey Dijon cream cheese, candied sweet potato and plantain hash and cayenne-spiced maple syrup. That’s right: plantain hash. Customers can also add fried chicken, and if you’re already ordering deep-fried French toast with hash, why the hell not? Other items that sound more common on first blush are still unique, like the crab-cake Benedict accompanied by porkbelly.

Barcelona breakfast tostada @ Hutch & Harris (W-S)

Available: Sundays, 10:30 a.m.-3 p.m. hutchandharris.com

Rejoice, pizza people; this thin-crust ’za is designed for the morning. Offered up with white-bean chicken chili, two fried eggs, pico de gallo salsa, ranchero sauce and cheddar cheese, this unusual brunch option that stands out on Hutch & Harris’ menu may be the answer to your prayers. The ranchero sauce is what makes the dish stand out, and switching the item up by ordering scrambled eggs is a good call.

Diners can double their bloody Mary for $1.50, and meals come with small biscuits, muffins and cornbread. No wonder people filled every table on a recent Sunday, as a man plucked his guitar in a front corner of the downtown Winston-Salem institution.

Bread pudding sandwich @ Southern Lights (GSO)

Available: Sundays, 11:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m. southernlightsbistro.com

There are plenty of other delicious brunch choices in the Triad, but those options, albeit mouthwatering, aren’t as out-there as this final contender. Southern Lights Bistro recently started serving Sunday brunch, and its weirdest option is a bread-pudding sandwich, complete with Neese’s sausage, fried egg, chipotle aioli and cheddar cheese. Sit on the patio while you eat — it’s one of the nicer ones that the Triad has to offer, complete with a tent-like structure for shade.

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9 honorable mentions:

Pimiento cheese fondue @ Village Tavern (W-S and GSO)

This area may be known for pimiento cheese, but I’d be surprised if anywhere else in the region turned it into a fondue like this one, with corn chips, cucumbers and broccoli. The Village Tavern — which has two locations in Winston-Salem, one in Greensboro and eight others including one in the Philippines — also has spring rolls with Napa cabbage, garlic, soy, ginger and grilled chicken on its brunch menu.

Tex & Shirley’s (HP and GSO)

New York would be proud. The “Manhattan pancakes” at this daily breakfast spot, located in High Point and Greensboro, comes with “thick sour cream rolled into three thin pancakes,” or cottage cheese if you’d prefer. Oh, and they also offer “corn pancakes” that are 50 percent cornbread.

Funny Monkey sandwich @ the Porch (W-S)

There’s a “Funny Monkey sandwich” made up of peanut butter, banana and chocolate chips on the kids’ brunch menu at the Porch Kitchen & Cantina, the popular Tex-Mex restaurant in the West End Mill Works with more standard choices for adults.

Russell’s Rajun Cajun @ Toshi’s Café (GSO)

This may be the Triad’s most interesting bagel, featuring egg white, Cajun cream cheese, bacon and green onion. Toshi Yoshida, the owner, may also be the nicest person in town.

Breakfast nachos @ Mary’s Gourmet Diner (W-S)

Mary’s may be Winston-Salem’s most popular brunch location, and with good reason. But most of the options aren’t that out there — instead they’re just delicious. The polenta fries, sprinkled with Parmesan and chervil and served with either smoked chili aioli or hollandaise sauce, are somewhat unexpected, but not as much as the breakfast nachos that come with white cheese sauce and scrambled eggs, among other things.

The Kitchen Sink @ Penny Path Café (HP)

This place itself stands out in the Triad, and this may be its wildest dish. When I ate there last month, I described the Kitchen Sink as “a cacophony of every ingredient in the house — we’re talking artichoke hearts, corn, mushrooms, hummus, and so on.” And it’s huge.

Toasted quinoa @ Iron Hen (GSO)

Have you ever heard of smoked tomatoes or toasted quinoa? What about together with sweet corn and two sunny-side up eggs? It’s worth noting too that there is a soy-marinated tofu scramble on the menu here, too.

Southern Dip Duo @ Liberty Brewery & Grill (HP)

Ever heard of boiled peanut hummus? Me either, but it sounds a lot like peanut butter. It’s part of this starter dish, served with pimiento cheese, pita chips and celery on Liberty’s Sunday brunch menu.

Dame’s Chicken & Waffles (GSO)

Alright fine, plenty of places around here serve this Southern brunch spectacular. And Dame’s offers the same menu daily, one that isn’t particularly wild. But the fact that there is an entire restaurant here dedicated to chicken and waffles, and that there are vegan waffles too, at least deserves a passing nod.